Mountaineering Legend Jim Whittaker, First American Atop Everest, Dies at 97

Jim Whittaker, the pioneering climber who made history in 1963 as the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, passed away on Tuesday, April 7, 2026.

He died peacefully at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, surrounded by his family. Known for his optimism and deep connection to the outdoors, Whittaker leaves behind a legacy that transformed American mountaineering and conservation.

Whittaker’s historic ascent alongside Nawang Gombu turned him into a national icon, sparking a widespread interest in high-altitude climbing across the United States. Beyond his personal achievements on the peaks, he was a pivotal figure in the outdoor industry, serving as the first full-time employee and eventual CEO of REI.

Under his guidance during the 1970s, the co-op expanded significantly, becoming a cornerstone for outdoor enthusiasts nationwide.

A dedicated advocate for the environment, Whittaker used his fame to champion the preservation of American wilderness. His advocacy was instrumental in the creation of several major protected areas, including North Cascades and Redwood National Parks.

He also used climbing as a tool for international diplomacy, notably leading the 1990 International Peace Climb that brought together American, Soviet, and Chinese mountaineers to promote global cooperation.

Whittaker’s life was also marked by deep personal connections, including a storied friendship with Robert F. Kennedy and a lifelong bond with his twin brother, Lou, a fellow climbing legend who passed away in 2024.

Survived by his wife, Dianne Roberts, and his three sons, Whittaker is remembered by many, including former Governor Jay Inslee, as a man whose impact on the American spirit was as monumental as the mountains he climbed.